我曾經看過其他去南美旅行的人寫道:沒有被 搶劫 ,就不算來過南美。
我完全不認同這句話,雖然南美洲確實有治安比較差的地方,不過基本上,扒手、搶劫這類的事非常少,根本無法與巴黎、羅馬、巴賽隆納這幾個歐洲城市相提並論。
不過,我在南美洲旅行的14個月當中,還真的遇過一次搶劫⋯⋯
我的加州妹妹Alice
Alice是一個來自美國的大學生,趁著暑假,她在哥倫比亞旅行,來到卡利(Cali)時,住在我打工換宿的青年旅館。這個漂亮的加州女孩很討人喜歡,個性隨和、親切,又善解人意,只是有時候有點天真,講白一點,就是傻。
雖然Alice只是青年旅館的客人,卻經常和打工換宿的人混在一起,大概因為她十分仰慕我們這些長途流浪的背包客。
我們一起去上騷莎舞課,一起到處吃吃買買,晚上一起去騷莎吧跳舞,很快的,我和Alice就成為了很好的朋友。
▼ 在卡利青年旅館打工換宿的女生們,與Alice(左二)。

最後的晚餐
Alice要離開卡利的前一天,我們倆出去吃了一頓最後的晚餐,不知道什麼時候才會再見面。
不尋常的第五大道
飯後,我們走上那條熟悉的第五大道,要回青年旅館。這時是晚上九點了,人行道上卻還有很多人,三五成群,在聊天、在喝啤酒,一片喧鬧。
雖然這是條主要道路,但以前也不曾這麼熱鬧。我感覺到不太尋常,拉著Alice盡快穿越了騎樓下吵鬧的人群,看見前面的人行道上只有零星的幾個人,才踏回了輕鬆的步伐。
那個男人
一位站在路邊的男人對我們打了聲招呼,似乎是想和我們講話。對於這種陌生人的搭訕,我和Alice都習以為常,沒有想太多。
那個男人朝Alice走來,靠近得她不得不停下腳步。他什麼都沒說,只向Alice伸出了手。看到Alice扭著身子想躲開,眼見事情不對,我一把推開了那個男人的手臂,使得他踉蹌地後退了一步。
我單純地認為那個男人是要非禮Alice,沒想到,一切都發生得太快了,就在我們反應過來時,那個男人已經抽出了Alice口袋裡的錢包,並往人群的方向走去了。
救命
我愣在原地,心想錢包是拿不回來了。Alice則馬上轉頭,一邊追著那個男人,一邊大喊「救命」,引來街道上其他人的注意後,她不停地用西班牙文說「他拿了我的錢包」。
所幸,那個男人應該是喝醉了,他想快跑,卻只能搖搖晃晃地走,一下子就被人群圍住了。有人從他的手裡搶過錢包,不知道哪裡伸出來的另一隻手又把錢包奪了過去,接著,Alice的錢包在大家的手中來來去去,場面十分混亂,我一度以為他們是想把錢包瓜分了。
終於,有人將錢包高高舉起,交到了Alice的手上,她快速地檢查了已被打開的錢包,還好什麼也沒少。然後,她抓起我的手,大步地朝著青年旅館的方向跑。
人群沒有散去,那個男人仍被圍在中間,大家對他叫罵,甚至有些肢體上的碰撞。
事出有因
發生這件事時,我在卡利已經待了兩個月,第五大道的這段路走過不下一百次。晚上九點不算太晚,路上還有車、有行人,還有沒關門的店家,就算是自己一個人也不會有問題。
我們會遇上搶劫,一定是有原因的。
- 看完足球賽的人們
後來,當地的朋友告訴我們,這天晚上有卡利隊的足球賽,人們都變得比較瘋狂,又喝酒又鬧事,剛好,因為我們走的那段路前面就是球場,剛看完球賽的人群都聚集在街道上,所以應該要多注意一點。
- 裸露的錢包
平常,我們都習慣不帶包包出門,錢包和手機就放在口袋裡,看起來像沒有帶東西一樣,這樣最安全。
這個晚上,Alice不知道是少了哪根筋,她決定把上衣紮進褲子裡。牛仔短褲的口袋很淺,她的錢包有一半赤裸裸地露在外面,根本就在引人注目。
不得不說,Alice自己該負最大的責任。即便如此,我還是很佩服她堅持把錢包追回來的舉動。
做個聰明的旅行者
我會分享這個故事,其實是想讓大家知道「南美洲很安全」。14個月的旅行中,遊歷6個國家,不僅沒有人傷害我,還遇到很多幫助我的人。
Alice的粗心大意,加上遇到了酒醉胡鬧的人,才會發生這樣的意外。不是因為在哥倫比亞,在任何地方,把錢包敞露在外,都是有可能被搶的。
旅行不危險,只是要做個聰明的旅行者。
☀
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